The condition of a bicycle is one of the most important factors in determining value. Condition is something that is subjective and each collector will make their own determination of what they consider the condition of an item to be in. There is no “industry standard” in collectible bicycles but here are this author’s definitions and guidelines concerning condition. The scale I use is C1 being the lowest to C10 being the highest. This guide does not consider restored bikes.

Remember this is only a guide and as such you may have differing opinions as to condition and your definition of a particular grade. There may also be conflicts in grading. For instance I have seen a C8 bike with a wrong front wheel. This alone would not make this a C5 bike. You should factor in the replacement cost of a correct wheel in this case to determine value. To some degree many bikes can be upgraded either through careful cleaning/refurbishment of existing parts or through replacement of identical but better condition parts. Just realize cost can be significant to accomplish this.

A final note on condition; the grading scale is not linear in relation to value. Given two identical models of a bike there may be huge differences in value between grades. Many factors determine this to include the model, equipment, colors, demand etc… . The best advice I was ever given was “Buy the best you can afford”.

C10—This is a perfect bike. Just as delivered from the factory and 100% complete. No deterioration or damage of rubber, leather, plating, or paint. This is a unicorn bike. If you ever find one please let the world see it.

C9—An exceptional bike. 100% complete. A few errant marks on plating or paint only visible upon close examination. Seat, tires, pedals, grips are original to the bike although they may show signs of age such as minor yellowing, slight hardening, or hairline cracks. All electrical accessories will function as new.

C8—An extremely nice bike. A bike in this condition will still stand out from its contemporaries in a show field. May have replaced tires but all other components are original equipment. Minor scrapes and scratches and possibly a small dent or two on the fenders. No major dents or large areas of paint loss. Plating may be showing age with dullness and cad plating may be missing in areas. Decals are present but may show age. Electrical accessories may not work without rewiring or cleaning switches, buttons, or contacts. Seat will have wear but look presentable and be absent of rips or tears.

C7– A very nice collectible specimen. Tires, grips, and pedals either noticeably worn originals or correct reproduction replacements. Paint will show signs of age and use to include small dents in sheet metal (not frame), numerous scratches and abrasions but not so many as to detract from the overall presentation of the bike. Plating may have some loss and/or ‘peppering’. Bikes in this condition may have minor touch-ups that aren’t readily apparent. If equipped the reflector may be missing or replaced. Electrical (internal) components may be damaged beyond repair. Seat will show obvious signs of wear such as discoloration and may have frayed edges, loose stitching, but no holes or tears.

C6—A bike showing honest wear. A ‘tired’ original bike. Major components such as tank, rack, fenders, and guard will be original. Decals may be missing. Plating will show considerable wear although it may clean up some. Paint will show the ravages of time to include scratches and dents. The seat will show significant signs of wear to include rips, tears, and/or repairs. Electrical components do not work and may have some missing parts.  The bike is serviceable as-is and suitable for riding.

C5—An average bike. Bikes in this condition have been well used and paint and plating will show it although careful cleaning may improve appearance. Bikes in this condition could probably stand to be serviced. Wheels, seat, pedals, grips, and other minor parts may be incorrect replacements or mis-matched. The frame/fork should show no obvious signs of damage such as broken welds, large dents, or bent forks.

C4—These bikes have go and whoa but may need servicing to be fully roadworthy. Paint is very poor original that may clean up some. The bike will have heavy scratches, dents, and significant paint loss. May be missing some parts such as light and reflector. Plating will exhibit pitting, rust, and flaking. Major components such as fenders, guard, rack, and tank will be correct but may be reproduction or replaced with correct pieces from a different bike. Missing light(s), horn, buttons, switches, bells, etc… .

C3—Needs help. Bikes in this condition will either be very poor original paint, house painted, or have mis-matched parts. Could also be an as-found “barn” fresh bike. The bike will need tires/tubes and a full service and/or repairs to be roadworthy. Electrical components shot. Could have structural damage or show signs of previous repair. Plating mostly gone and rusty. May be missing significant parts such as tank, rack, guard.

C2—A project bike. A typical ‘’basket case”. A bike that may or may not have poor original paint but likely in primer or possibly even bare metal. Parts may be missing and/or incorrect. Unless very valuable a restoration will likely exceed the finished value many times over. Likely comes in boxes unassembled. May be more suitable for a custom or ‘rat’ bike.

C1—parts only unless extremely valuable. For the vast majority of bikes in this condition you salvage what you can and throw the rest in the trash. Exceptions would be a Bluebird or other very high end bike.