What’s in a (Serial) Number?

Many times I see people simply post a bicycle serial number and ask for information such as make, model, etc… . Unfortunately bicycle serial numbers, unlike an automobile vehicle identification number (VIN) often tell you very little about the bicycle. At the very best it may tell you the date the serial number was stamped but not necessarily when the bike was made. This is because the parts that the serial numbers are stamped on were often done before the frames were ever built and could have set in the parts bin for days, weeks, or months before the bicycle was ever manufactured.

Numbering varied greatly between manufacturers as well as record keeping. Most people are aware of the fire at the Schwinn factory in 1948. Some wrongly assume that bikes before 1948 can’t be dated. This is not true because collectors have been gathering data for decades to fill in the holes and most Schwinns, at least back to 1933, can be roughly dated off the serial number.

Schwinn along with Cleveland Welding Company (CWC) and Westfield Manufacturing are probably the easiest to date by serial number due to very complete records. The numbering for other manufacturers such as Shelby and obscure makers such as Manton Smith are less understood and dating a bare frame can be difficult.

This is why it is important to look for other clues as to the age and model of the bike. The style of the frame, placement of the serial number, style of the chain ring, badge, dates or marks on components especially the rear hub or crank, or paint and accessories can all help identify the bicycle.

When asking for information try to provide as many of these clues as you can along with good, clear pictures of the entire bike from the chain ring side, head badge, dropouts and other frame characteristics such as fender bridges and fork crowns.  By doing this you stand a much better chance of dating and identifying your bicycle.

Enjoy the ride!

Balloon Tire Full Suspension Bicycles

While it is commonplace for modern bicycles, especially mountain bikes, to employ both a front and rear suspension this practice was only tried sporadically since the inception of the safety bicycle in 1885. For balloon tire bicycles there were only two makers who produced a true full suspension bicycle; Monark and Huffman.

In 1938 Huffman introduced the “Twin Flex” model. This bike had small springs located at the front and rear drop outs to act as shock absorbers. Unfortunately this proved to be a poor design and was immediately recalled. There is only on surviving example of this bike and it is referred to as the “death bike”. There are many stories how the name “death bike” came to be. Some claim the design itself was dangerous leading to the name. The likely reason though is the fact that the poor design almost led Huffman to ruin. 

Miraculously Huffman was able to re-design the suspension within a few months and produce the second design Twin Flex which actually works pretty well. 

I’ve heard many people complain about how the Twin Flex rides. Some of these people never even rode a Twin Flex. These bikes are now over 80 years old and there are a few factors that can lead to a poor ride to include worn bushings and weak springs. A reproduction heavy duty spring has been made and worn parts can be replaced although it may take some hunting. Once these parts are checked and the suspension is adjusted properly the Twin Flex is a great riding bike. I own four Twin Flex’ and the only problem I’ve ever encountered is the rear suspension binding and hopping on emergency (hard) braking.

 

Late in 1938 Monark introduced a twin suspension bicycle sold through Gambles department stores known as the Airman Comet. So far only two examples of this bike are known. One is a semi-complete bike that was house painted red. The other is a complete, original bike. There have been about four or five tribute bikes built as well.

The design used for the suspension on the Monark bikes is somewhat delicate. The spring fork used for the 1939 Monarks is called a ‘pencil springer’ by collectors. I have had about six of these forks and on every one of them the ‘pencil’ part was bent and had to be straightened. The springs for these are fairly small and can’t absorb a lot of load. A rider weighing more than 175lbs is going to bottom these springs out. 

Some will argue there is a third maker-Colson. The reason I don’t include the Colson Twin Cushioner model from 1941 is that I don’t consider this a true suspension. Colson used rubber bushings to absorb shock and the design actually does very little in the way of acting as a true suspension. 

For those that want something different either to ride or collect I would recommend the Huffman built twin Flex. While not cheap a well sorted bike is fun to ride and you’ll definitely stand out from the crowd. Enjoy the ride!

The Girls Schwinn Phantom

Most folks are aware that the Phantom was made from 1949 to 1959. There is some debate on the ’49 start date but that is for another blog. Besides the boys 26″ bikes Schwinn also made the boys bikes in 24″ for 1953 and 1954 only. The girls Phantoms were only made for one year–1955 as Model B69.

Like the boys bikes the girls could be had in black, red, or green. Additionally the girls bike could be ordered in blue as well. Although never offered in the catalog there is at least one bonafide example of a boys blue bike. 

Beginning in 1954 Schwinn changed the colors on the red and green Phantoms to “opalescent” from the solid colors used in previous years. The also started reducing the options on the bikes. A lot of the options previously standard were now extra cost options. Things such as the deluxe reflector, tailight, and cyclelock all cost extra and from the girls bikes I’ve seen most did not receive these options. Like the boys bikes these are good riding bikes provided they are serviced properly. 

Like the boys bikes I would caution against buying restored girls Phantoms. If you are thinking about a restored bike and care about authenticity then make sure the bike has a 1955 serial number. I have seen quite a few of these done with other year frames. Also be leery of reproduction parts. Most restorations are done with a locking fork so they can use reproduction fenders. The non locker for 1955 takes a different fender than the locking fork and is not reproduced. Even though they are more scarce than the boys bikes nice, original bikes can be found for what people ask for a restored bike that may not have even been a Phantom to begin with. 

Enjoy the ride!

Wards Hawthorne Zep 1937-1939

1937

The 1937 model uses the aforementioned ‘fastback” frame which
was first introduced in 1936. The frame was used for models such as the Sport or Comet
 and was used all the way through 1939 (but only ’37 for Zeps). The frame was built by H.P. Snyder who distributed most of their product through D.P. Harris as Rollfast models. There are a couple of ways to determine if the bike is a Zep. First all 1937 models were black with white
trim and red pinstripes. If the bike is any other color it is not a Zep. Secondly if the fork is present it must have a fork lock which was internal to these forks. There are two varieties of the 1937 bike, an early and a late bike. The early bike uses a frame without the dropstand ‘ears’ on the dropouts and angular truss rods. The late bike uses a frame with the built
in drop stand ears as well as curved truss rods.

1938

For 1938 things become a little more complicated. The Zep was now offered in a couple different colors as well as being made by both Snyder and Cleveland Welding Co. (CWC). While the catalog only list the bike in black and white there are cream and black versions as well. The bikes could also be ordered with a New Departure front brake and two speed as shown on the above bike. All Zeps still had a locking fork but now it is the external type typically seen on CWC products that uses a Wise key. This lock was used on both the Snyder and CWC bikes. The frames between both makers are very similar but two quick tells will be the serial number and the rear fender bridge. The serial numbers of CWC have a distinctive font as well as the numbers are pretty well known as far as dating the bikes and the serial will likely start with “B”, “C”, or “D”. The rear fender bridge on a CWC will be straight across vice a round fender bridge as found on the Snyder built bikes.

1939

For 1939 Wards again used both Snyder and CWC products. To complicate things even further though Wards sold bikes (not just Zeps) with the, new for ’39, CWC shockmaster fork (pic). This fork was optional so you will find Zeps made by both Snyder and CWC equipped with either truss or spring forks. The bikes could also be equipped with either “streamlined” handlebars or “steerhorn” handlebars and also a two speed was available. The frame for the ’39 Zep uses a double bar design. Similar models used this frame but the Zep frame will have two holes on the bar under the tank to mount the battery tray (pic) whereas the other models will not have these holes. Like the ’38 models the Zep will have the external fork lock and be fully equipped. While there are small differences between the fenders and other things on the ’39 models the maker (Snyder or CWC) can be determined the same way as a ’38 model although the serial for a CWC bike will likely start with either a “D” or “E”. Like previous years the catalog only list the Zep in black and white although both blue and red bikes with white trim are found as well. Of the three years the ’39 is generally the more desirable due to its double bar frame and unique tank design with the lit reflectors in the side.

Like most deluxe bikes of the era none of these will be inexpensive and nice original bikes will always command a premium. I would caution against buying project bikes as parts have gotten terribly expensive and building one of these from a frameset could easily cost two to three times the worth of the bike when finished. If buying a restored bike there is no way to know for certain if the bike truly began as a Zep unless the seller has pre-restoration pictures that indicate it was a Zep. Hopefully these few words arm you with enough information to pick out a real Zep. Enjoy the ride! Shawn

Ann Arbor 2019

Whew another one in the books. Ann Arbor (AA) tops off nearly an entire week of bike events that start with the Memory Lane Classics Show (MLC). I have to commend Paul and Annie Kleppert and the entire Ann Arbor team for their efforts. I know by the time Paul was handing out awards he was running on fumes. I know my dad and I had a great time and got to catch up with some old friends and make new ones.

Typically the show opens to everyone Sunday morning but this year vendors were allowed in Saturday starting at 1 pm. The threat of a few inches of snow never materialized and even though the start was a little chilly the sun came out and hit mid 60s for a beautiful day.

Memory Lane and Ann Arbor are two very different venues. While you will see many faces (and bikes) from MLC AA always offers something different. It seems to me the diversity of AA is greater than what typically shows up at MLC. For example you won’t see too many Pinarellos, Colnagos, or boutique built bikes at MLC while AA will have these plus more motorized stuff even though the mini-bike part was separated a couple of years ago.

There was a good representation of all types of bikes and there were a lot of great bikes as well as other interesting items to include ride on toys such as wagons, sleds, and scooters. Some really nice TOC stuff and the prices were right on a lot of it. There seemed to be a good selection of muscle bikes such as Sting-Rays, Buzz Bike, etc… but I don’t really track these too closely to say whether they were priced right or not. I saw a few high end road bikes that seemed to be priced right but failed to find new homes. I believe a couple early Paramounts did find a new home and there was a beautiful, fully restored ’45 Paramount in the show. The balloon tire stuff seemed a little thin and most was a carry-over from MLC. Something that always amuses me is that I will see a bike at MLC on Thursday morning and by the time of AA it has changed hands three or four times with the price moving incrementally higher each time!

There seemed to be a fairly healthy crowd and it looked like people were buying. I’d like to hear some vendor’s perspectives on this. Overall this year it seems to me bikes have been moving sort of slowly. Other than some pre-sales I didn’t see too many high end bikes move and it seemed the market for low to middle end bikes is stagnant. Parts on the other hand seem to do pretty well and it appears more people are concentrating on finishing projects rather than starting new ones. With about ten that need to be done myself I totally understand!

While the bike show seemed a little light again this year there were still a lot of quality bikes. Since 2007 the Classic Bike of the Year (CBOY) award has been split into “Best Restored” and “Best Preserved”. The winner in the restored category was Mike Di Vito with his beautifully restored 1937 Evinrude Streamflow Imperial. I received runner-up in this category with my 1939 Monark Model GT495. I won the best preserved category with my 1938 Wards Hawthorne Zep. The runner-up in best preserved was Brant Mackley with a truly outstanding ca. 1896 Denver Cycle Mfr. Co. tandem. Speaking of Brant he also let me get a sneak peak of an uber rare 1954 Cleveland Welding Co. Skylark prototype. This is an unusual cast aluminum bike that many are unaware of let alone ever seen in person. I challenge anyone attending next year to bring a bike to show. Heck you may win a plaque and if you enter CBOY possibly some cash as well. The winner in each category for CBOY gets $250 and the runner up gets $150. In the general show classes you get a plaque and bragging rights!

Next year Paul has announced this will be a two day show (Saturday and Sunday) which many have lobbied for. Trying to cram the show and swap into about six hours is tight and doesn’t really give you much time to see everything. I believe the extra day will really help both vendors and buyers. Usually my dad and I use Saturday to go sightseeing because many of the vendors at Memory Lane have packed up By the time I stop and pick up my dad in Indiana this makes it a 2100 mile round trip ride for me so an extra day will give us a chance to really take everything in without rushing. Below are a few pics. To see the rest please go here https://vintageamericanbicycles.com/index.php/events/  I look forward to seeing everyone next year so until then enjoy the ride!

Determining Condition

The condition of a bicycle is one
of the most important factors in determining value. Condition is something that
is subjective and each collector will make their own determination of what they
consider the condition of an item to be in. There is no “industry standard” in
collectible bicycles but here are this author’s definitions and guidelines
concerning condition. The scale I use is C1 being the lowest to C10 being the
highest. This guide does not consider restored bikes.

Remember this is only a guide and as such you may have differing
opinions as to condition and your definition of a particular grade. There may
also be conflicts in grading. For instance I have seen a C8 bike with a wrong
front wheel. This alone would not make this a C5 bike. You should factor in the
replacement cost of a correct wheel in this case to determine value. To some
degree many bikes can be upgraded either through careful cleaning/refurbishment
of existing parts or through replacement of identical but better condition
parts. Just realize cost can be significant to accomplish this.

A final note on condition; the
grading scale is not linear in relation to value. Given two identical models of
a bike there may be huge differences in value between grades. Many factors
determine this to include the model, equipment, colors, demand etc… . The best
advice I was ever given was “Buy the best you can afford”.

C10—This is a perfect bike. Just as delivered from the
factory and 100% complete. No deterioration or damage of rubber, leather,
plating, or paint. This is a unicorn bike. If you ever find one please let the
world see it.

C9—An exceptional bike. 100% complete. A few errant marks on
plating or paint only visible upon close examination. Seat, tires, pedals,
grips are original to the bike although they may show signs of age such as
minor yellowing, slight hardening, or hairline cracks. All electrical
accessories will function as new.

C8—An extremely nice bike. A bike in this condition will
still stand out from its contemporaries in a show field. May have replaced
tires but all other components are original equipment. Minor scrapes and
scratches and possibly a small dent or two on the fenders. No major dents or
large areas of paint loss. Plating may be showing age with dullness and cad
plating may be missing in areas. Decals are present but may show age. Electrical
accessories may not work without rewiring or cleaning switches, buttons, or
contacts. Seat will have wear but look presentable and be absent of rips or
tears.

C7– A very nice collectible specimen. Tires, grips, and
pedals either noticeably worn originals or correct reproduction replacements.
Paint will show signs of age and use to include small dents in sheet metal (not
frame), numerous scratches and abrasions but not so many as to detract from the
overall presentation of the bike. Plating may have some loss and/or
‘peppering’. Bikes in this condition may have minor touch-ups that aren’t
readily apparent. If equipped the reflector may be missing or replaced.
Electrical (internal) components may be damaged beyond repair. Seat will show
obvious signs of wear such as discoloration and may have frayed edges, loose stitching,
but no holes or tears.

C6—A bike showing honest wear. A ‘tired’ original bike.
Major components such as tank, rack, fenders, and guard will be original.
Decals may be missing. Plating will show considerable wear although it may
clean up some. Paint will show the ravages of time to include scratches and
dents. The seat will show significant signs of wear to include rips, tears,
and/or repairs. Electrical components do not work and may have some missing
parts.  The bike is serviceable as-is and
suitable for riding.

C5—An average bike. Bikes in this condition have been well
used and paint and plating will show it although careful cleaning may improve
appearance. Bikes in this condition could probably stand to be serviced. Wheels,
seat, pedals, grips, and other minor parts may be incorrect replacements or
mis-matched. The frame/fork should show no obvious signs of damage such as
broken welds, large dents, or bent forks.

C4—These bikes have go and whoa but may need servicing to be
fully roadworthy. Paint is very poor original that may clean up some. The bike
will have heavy scratches, dents, and significant paint loss. May be missing
some parts such as light and reflector. Plating will exhibit pitting, rust, and
flaking. Major components such as fenders, guard, rack, and tank will be
correct but may be reproduction or replaced with correct pieces from a
different bike. Missing light(s), horn, buttons, switches, bells, etc… .

C3—Needs help. Bikes in this condition will either be very
poor original paint, house painted, or have mis-matched parts. Could also be an
as-found “barn” fresh bike. The bike will need tires/tubes and a full service
and/or repairs to be roadworthy. Electrical components shot. Could have
structural damage or show signs of previous repair. Plating mostly gone and
rusty. May be missing significant parts such as tank, rack, guard.

C2—A project bike. A typical ‘’basket case”. A bike that may
or may not have poor original paint but likely in primer or possibly even bare
metal. Parts may be missing and/or incorrect. Unless very valuable a
restoration will likely exceed the finished value many times over. Likely comes
in boxes unassembled. May be more suitable for a custom or ‘rat’ bike.

C1—parts only unless extremely valuable. For the vast
majority of bikes in this condition you salvage what you can and throw the rest
in the trash. Exceptions would be a Bluebird or other very high end bike.

Bike Shows!

Spring is here and bike show time is about to get in full swing. There have already been a couple of shows in the Southeast–the Commerce, GA Pedal-to-the-Metal and the Cleveland, TN Get-A-Grip shows. Next up is the Copake Swap and Auction. The auction this year combines the automobilia and bicycles in one auction. Later in the month is the Memory Lane Classics show in Grand Rapids, OH followed with Ann Arbor Classic bicycle show. Unfortunately I can’t attend the Copake auction in person but online bidding is available. My dad and I will attend both Memory Lane and Ann Arbor and I hope to see a lot of old friends and make some new ones. Another relatively new show is the Rock Hill, SC Bikefest which looks to be a lot of fun and I plan on attending that one as well. 

Attending these bike shows, swaps, and auctions is a great way to increase your collecting network, make new friends, and learn not only by talking to knowledgeable people but by seeing many of these machines up close. 

I am always amazed by the bikes that show up at these events. While my main focus is prewar balloon tire bikes I appreciate all aspects of collecting and seeing rare and desirable muscle, road, BMX, antique, and oddball machines is always exciting. 

If you want to get an idea of what you might see at these shows please view the Gallery “Past Events” section. I have posted info to these shows on the Home page. If you know of other events you can send me the info and I will post these as well. Enjoy the ride!